![]() ![]() Thanks again for the abundance of information, TW. One adwantage with sawing (or heving in the old days) the logs on two sides in advance before starting the build is that one can see if the log wanted to twist or bend too badly after sawing. However our local spruce sometimes has just a few darker growth rings that usually means very little. ![]() If there is a lot of it I avoid using that log. That compression wood is called "tjur" in our dialect. I can tell by the way they work that the film at the start of this thread is from the region of Savo in south eastern Finland. Our ways are a mix of the methods used by the Finns further inland and the methods used on the nearby coast of Sweden. I work in is the tradition of the Swedes in Österbotten on the western coast of Finland. I once saw another carpenter using one which he had ordered from Canada.Īll of this is very region specific. I imagine they could be handy for the corner notches on round or hexagonal logs. I have never used one of those canadian scribes. My grandfather's scribe has only two arms but I found that theese older scriped with a pair of arms pointing outwards as well are much easier to keep vertical by eye. As the scribe is held vertically by eye the shorter the distance between the points the less error will be caused by it being a few degrees off from vertical at times. You cut the notches in the log to be scribe fitted just deep enough to let the upper log touch the lower log round side against round side before you start scribing. I was wondering if that's common in your area,TW,and if it is if it's an issue during selection process for you guys(that pattern is especially obvious on the cross-grain cut).Īye that's correct. Such thickened cell-walls are nearly twice harder than the surrounding wood,and often have the power and tendency to distort the log in some surprising ways. Lovely old tools there.I've forged a traditional scribe like that for a friend once,but have never used one myself.I presume that to use one the log would already be some ways down in the corner notches,"pre-scribed" if you will,as the distance between points is not that great(compared to a scribe with a set of bubbles that can be used on a much wider setting)?Īnother somewhat unrelated question,if i may:On the photo below there're several strands where the grain is darker and wider-that is "compression wood",where the cellulose has grown thicker because of some environmental stress(like the ground falling away and the tree gradually adjusting,straightening itself back to vertical). It's an important reminder of how much of critical thinking goes into log-building,that there's most often a very solid reason for this or that choice of approach and so on. Wish i had read some of this a few months ago as i was starting the latest cabin,but them's the breaks.Īmong other points I especially appreciate that mention of how region-specific much of the technology is,and how under some other conditions the technique would be somewhat modified. Thanks,TW,excellent thread,i'm enjoying this immensely. ![]()
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